Audemars Piguet Introduces Revolutionary Atelier des Établisseurs Initiative with Three Exquisite Timepieces

Audemars Piguet has launched a groundbreaking initiative, the Atelier des Établisseurs, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, marking a significant evolution in watchmaking. This project reinvents the historical 'établissage' method, fostering collaboration between in-house specialists and external artisans to produce exceptional, limited-edition timepieces. The aim is not merely to replicate past techniques but to infuse them with modern innovation, bringing a new dimension of creativity and transparency to the industry. By highlighting the contributions of individual craftspeople, Audemars Piguet seeks to preserve rare skills and honor the often-overlooked talent behind these intricate creations.

Sébastian Vivas, Audemars Piguet’s heritage and museum director, emphasized that the Atelier des Établisseurs is about synthesizing the best aspects of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary approaches. Unlike the past, where artisans remained anonymous, this initiative proudly names the approximately 15 key contributors for each of the three inaugural timepieces, including watchmakers, engravers, designers, and engineers. This commitment to transparency is a deliberate effort to acknowledge and celebrate the skilled individuals whose expertise is vital to the creation of these horological masterpieces.

The project also addresses the critical issue of preserving increasingly rare craftsmanship. Vivas pointed out that many specialized techniques, such as glass cutting for vintage pocket watches or specific types of chamfering and hand openworking, are no longer taught in formal watchmaking schools. The knowledge held by these master artisans is often passed down through generations, and if not actively preserved, it risks disappearing entirely. By commissioning these experts and integrating their skills into new projects, Audemars Piguet provides them with a platform to practice, innovate, and transmit their invaluable knowledge to future generations, ensuring the continuity of these precious crafts.

The Établisseurs Galets is a remarkable example, drawing inspiration from the serene forms of the Vallée de Joux. This 18-karat yellow-gold watch features a distinctive pebble shape, a vibrant turquoise stone dial, and a flowing bracelet adorned with alternating tiger’s eye and turquoise stones, each uniquely shaped. Its Calibre 3098 movement, a derivative of the ultra-thin 9-line Calibre 3090, is meticulously grained by hand and assembled by a single watchmaker, embodying a dedication to precision and artistry. Five distinct variations, each featuring different stone combinations, are slated for release this year.

Another debut piece, the Établisseurs Peacock, ventures into the intricate realm of automata. This secret watch, crafted from finely engraved 18-karat white gold, initially appears as a beetle. With a simple push, its wings and head unfold to reveal a hand-engraved dial set beneath translucent enamel. The complex mechanism for its smooth and secure opening and closing is exceptionally challenging to execute, requiring extensive development. Three variations of the Établisseurs Peacock are anticipated to be available in 2027.

Vivas highlighted the Établisseurs Nomade as his personal favorite, a creation that blends futuristic aesthetics with antique charm, perfectly encapsulating the project's dual focus on preservation and innovation. This versatile piece transitions seamlessly from a pocket watch to a table clock, showcasing a movement entirely skeletonized by hand using traditional methods. This painstaking process, which can take up to a month and allows no room for error, is a testament to Audemars Piguet's commitment to sustaining rare skills. The Nomade's outer dial, made from natural stone, is housed within an architectural case of beveled metal mesh and faceted stones. Like the Galets, five variations with diverse stone combinations will be launched in 2026.

The underlying movements for both the Nomade and the Galets, specifically the Calibre 3098, demonstrate Audemars Piguet’s innovative adaptation. While appearing distinct, Vivas explained that only the main plate and bridge shapes have been altered, retaining the core architecture and precision of the original Calibre 3090. Similarly, the Nomade incorporates the Calibre 7501, an adaptation of the 7121 (developed for the Royal Oak Jumbo), with modifications to remove the self-winding system and date function, and to achieve a more symmetrical axis. Despite these visual changes, the fundamental engineering remains unchanged, ensuring the same impeccable performance.

This ambitious project originated from a conversation between Vivas and Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta regarding the potential revival of two historic timepieces. Recognizing the extraordinary nature of these watches, Resta inquired about recreating them. Vivas explained that these pieces were born during a period when Audemars Piguet operated as 'établisseurs'—small structures of watchmakers collaborating with numerous independent partners for components. To recapture this creative freedom, he proposed reintroducing a more flexible structure, engaging both external craftspeople, many of whom are little-known, and talented internal artisans who might lack opportunities for such specialized work.

Over two years, this concept evolved into a significant undertaking. Vivas emphasized that the Atelier des Établisseurs is not primarily a commercial venture but an investment in time and a commitment to exploring new horizons in design and craftsmanship, while actively supporting these rare skills. In an industry often characterized by secrecy and mass production, this initiative stands out as a powerful affirmation of watchmaking's collaborative spirit and its enduring artistic legacy.