Exploring Notable Timepieces: Valjoux 72 Chronographs, Gold Omega Constellations, and Unique Sarpaneva Moomin Watches

This week's column brings forth a curated collection of exceptional timepieces, exploring their historical relevance and unique characteristics. From a captivating Valjoux 72 chronograph, often referred to as a "Poor Man's Enicar," to an impeccably maintained 18k gold Omega Constellation from its inaugural year, and a whimsical Sarpaneva Moomin limited edition, the featured watches offer a glimpse into the diverse world of horology. The article also touches upon a rare Vacheron Constantin 4111 chronograph, along with other intriguing selections from upcoming auctions, inviting enthusiasts to appreciate their craftsmanship and enduring allure.

The discussion begins with a look at a Million chronograph, drawing parallels to the "Poor Man's Heuers" due to its resemblance to more established brands. This particular Valjoux 72-powered timepiece, though exhibiting some dial imperfections, is notable for its overall presentation and a unique branded bracelet. Unlike its Heuer counterparts, which often originated from well-known manufacturers, these "Sherpa Graph Cousins" typically come from less prominent brands, adding to their distinctive appeal. The 40mm case with its beveled lugs is particularly striking, and despite some wear, the watch maintains a compelling aesthetic. This piece, with a current bid reaching £900, is set to conclude its auction on July 12th in Sheffield.

Next, the spotlight shifts to an exquisite 18k gold Omega Constellation reference 2648, a model launched in 1952. This particular example, featuring a cross-haired dial and a bumper movement, hails from the very first year of production for this iconic line. The condition of vintage gold watches is often assessed by the caseback, and this Constellation boasts an almost pristine Observatory emblem, indicating exceptional preservation. The sharp lugs and decagonal crown further underscore its remarkable state, a rarity for a timepiece over 70 years old. Despite debates surrounding the originality of early Constellation dials, this example appears to be authentic and well-preserved.

The intricate world of Omega Constellations is vast and varied, encompassing a multitude of case shapes, materials, dials, and hand configurations. Enthusiasts often favor specific iterations, such as the "pie-pan dog-leg" models or the 2852. However, the sheer diversity of the Constellation series means that each reference offers unique characteristics and a rich history to explore. Desmond Guilfoyle's comprehensive website serves as an invaluable resource for those seeking to delve deeper into the expansive Constellation universe. This particular gold Constellation, set to be auctioned in France on July 4th, represents a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire a piece of horological history in outstanding condition.

Another highlight is the Sarpaneva Moomin watch, a limited edition of 75 pieces released in 2020 to commemorate the 75th anniversary of the Moomin books. Priced at €5,000, these watches quickly sold out, demonstrating their instant appeal. The watch's charm lies in its unique three-layered dial, where each plate is laser-cut and features randomly applied lume on the reeds, making every dial a distinctive work of art. While the Soprod A10 movement ensures reliable performance, it is the captivating visual artistry that truly sets this timepiece apart. The activated lume, visible in detailed auction images, serves as a litmus test for potential buyers; its mesmerizing glow is either a compelling draw or a decisive factor for passing. With bidding currently at $7,000, this exceptional watch is scheduled for sale on the 7th.

Concluding the feature, the Artcurial auction on the 6th presents a treasure trove of exceptional watches, including a Vacheron Constantin 4111 chronograph from 1940. This timepiece, with its undeniable aesthetic appeal, is rumored to be one of only three ever made, adding to its legendary status. Although the term 'cleaned' for the dial raises some questions, the inclusion of an extract from Vacheron Constantin's archives and its provenance from a descendant of the original owner provide a degree of assurance. The estimated price range of €50,000-80,000 appears modest for such a rare and historically significant piece of high horology. For those whose budgets may not accommodate such a rarity, an Eterna chronograph with a non-circular case offers a charming, albeit worn, alternative.