Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton: A Bold Revival

Favre Leuba, a name synonymous with horological heritage since 1737, has made a triumphant return to the watchmaking scene after a hiatus from 1985 to 2024. This venerable brand has re-emerged with a renewed sense of purpose, confidently reinterpreting its classic designs while embracing contemporary aesthetics. Among its notable comebacks are modernized versions of the Deep Raider and Harpoon, along with a reimagined 1970s Chief series. The spotlight shines particularly bright on the Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton, the brand's inaugural skeletonized timepiece. This distinctive creation, blending nostalgic charm with modern technicality, has earned a prestigious nomination for the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2026 in the Challenge Watch category, signaling its significance in the world of haute horlogerie.

Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton: An In-Depth Look

The Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton, a timepiece of undeniable confidence, stands out with its transparent design ethos. Available in seven distinct variations, it offers choices ranging from steel cushion-shaped cases paired with gold-toned skeletonized movements to black DLC-treated steel cases with matching black chrome-finished movements. Each model, with its 40 × 11.76mm dimensions, elegantly channels 1970s design influences in a remarkably understated size. A contemporary touch is added through the vibrant use of color on the flanges and the sleek, integrated rubber straps. The version nominated for the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2026, which features a steel case, a gold-colored movement, and striking blue accents, exemplifies this fusion of old and new.

The nominated model's case showcases a dynamic interplay of brushed and polished surfaces, accentuating its unique retro-futuristic silhouette. Practicality is not overlooked, with a robust 100m water resistance, supported by a screw-down crown. The watch boasts a seamless lug design that flows into a high-performance FKM (fluoroelastomer) rubber strap, in a deep blue hue that complements the dial flange. This strap, equipped with quick-release pins, allows for easy customization, offering versatility in style. For those preferring a different aesthetic, a stainless steel bracelet is also available.

At the heart of the Chief Skeleton lies its captivating movement. The skeletonized automatic caliber FLS01, a collaborative effort with Manufacture AMT (Sellita's specialist in high-grade and proprietary calibers), is a visual marvel. Its multi-layered construction provides an intricate display of horological artistry. The balance wheel, positioned at 6 o'clock and secured by a horizontally brushed bridge, exudes a sophisticated aura. The openworked barrel further reveals the coiling mainspring, adding to the movement's transparent appeal. The geometric, 4N-gold-plated bridges feature contrasting finishes, enriching the movement's architectural depth. Even the rotor, visible through the case back, is openworked, maintaining the skeletonized theme throughout. This movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a 41-hour power reserve.

On the wrist, the Chief Skeleton commands attention. Its supple rubber strap ensures comfort, while its bold aesthetic makes it a statement piece. The intense color contrasts between the case, flange, strap, and the intricate skeletonized movement create a visually arresting experience. Despite its modern flair, the case's fluid lines and 1970s-inspired design evoke a sense of classic elegance. In low light, the watch transforms, with its blue-glowing Super-LumiNova C1 X1 on the indexes and hands illuminating a distinctly modern face. While its eclectic blend of influences might present a challenge for some to categorize, its audacious design is precisely what Favre Leuba aimed for—a creation that is unapologetically bold and open-hearted, designed to captivate and provoke thought. This bold approach has certainly captured the attention of the GPHG committee, and its journey in the competition will be closely watched.