Fashion Trends

Historic Jewels and Emerald Ring Drive Bonhams London Auction to Record Heights

Dec 22, 2025, 8:41 PM

The recent Bonhams London Jewels sale, held on December 11, demonstrated a vigorous international demand for antique jewelry, particularly those pieces with a distinguished aristocratic background from Britain. The auction's standout consignments, featuring personal collections from Lady Glenconner and Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor, achieved prices significantly exceeding their preliminary valuations, as eager collectors vied for items steeped in history.

Lady Glenconner's exquisite antique diamond star tiara, dating from approximately 1880, was a highlight, fetching £127,400 (around $169,000)—more than double its projected high estimate. This versatile piece, comprising eight diamond stars totaling 78.5 carats, gained fame as it was donned by Lady Glenconner during her role as maid of honor at Queen Elizabeth II's coronation and on royal tours with Princess Margaret. Her entire collection experienced a 'white glove' sale, indicating a 100% sell-through rate, accumulating a total of £256,065 ($340,000).

Adding to the sale's historical allure was a diamond bracelet from Nancy Astor's collection, crafted around 1870. This piece, appearing on the market for the first time, is adorned with 36 carats of old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, arranged in a design of graduated circlets and delicate ivy leaves. It commanded a price of £95,650 ($127,000), tripling its lower estimate.

While historical connections largely fueled the auction's triumphs, the top-selling lot was a modern colored stone: a 10.37 carat Colombian emerald and diamond ring. This step-cut emerald, noted for having no clarity enhancement, ignited fierce bidding, eventually selling for an astounding £597,300 ($794,000)—eight times its pre-sale appraisal.

Additionally, signed period jewelry from prestigious design houses performed exceptionally well. A Cartier ruby and diamond necklace from approximately 1935, featuring Burmese rubies and inspired by Persian aesthetics, sold for £229,000 ($300,000). Other notable sales included a 19th-century diamond rivière with 39.32 carats of diamonds, which achieved £102,000 ($135,000), and a Cartier diamond strap bracelet from around 1925, realizing £70,250 ($93,000). The auction underscored the enduring appeal of both significant provenance and exceptional craftsmanship in the high-end jewelry market, drawing substantial interest from collectors globally.

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