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Universal Gen│ve Honors "The Nina" Compax Chronograph with a New Collection
In a significant return to its heritage, Universal Genève has unveiled a series of six exquisite chronographs, a tribute to the celebrated "The Nina" Compax. This collection showcases the brand's dedication to the art of fine watchmaking, blending historical design with contemporary craftsmanship. Each piece, crafted from either 18K white or red gold, is a testament to the brand's revitalized philosophy of watchmaking as a true métier d'art. These exclusive timepieces are available by special request, and notably, a portion of the proceeds will benefit the esteemed Geneva Watchmaking School, a venerable institution with deep historical ties to Universal Genève.
The Rebirth of an Icon: "The Nina" Compax Collection
Universal Genève's latest release, the Tribute to "The Nina" Compax, marks a pivotal moment for the historic Swiss watchmaker, marrying its rich legacy with a forward-looking vision of artisanal excellence. This collection, comprising two distinct sets of three chronographs each, meticulously crafted in 18K white or red gold, is a direct homage to the legendary timepiece popularized by Nina Rindt, a celebrated fashion figure and racing personality of the 20th century.
The genesis of this tribute lies in the deep cultural impact of Nina Rindt, who, in the late 1960s, transformed the functional Compax chronograph into a coveted style accessory. Her innovative choice to wear the watch, originally a gift from her husband Jochen Rindt to time his races, on a wide leather cuff sourced from Paris, elevated its status from a mere tool to a fashion statement. This unique styling led collectors to affectionately dub the watch "the Nina." Decades later, Nina Rindt, now in her eighties, has collaborated directly with Universal Genève to reimagine this iconic narrative.
Georges Kern, CEO of Universal Genève, articulated the brand's strategic direction, stating, "These six individually crafted watches reflect the direction we set for the brand when we acquired it in 2023. Nina Rindt’s chronograph is one of Universal Genève’s defining stories. Revisiting it was never a question; it was always part of our vision for the brand’s return."
The collection extends its celebration of craftsmanship beyond horology, notably through the distinctive bund straps. These were conceived by Japanese master leather artisan Satoru Hosoi, marking his inaugural collaboration with a watch brand. Revered for his work with luxury houses like Hermès and Moynat, Hosoi approached the design with a couture sensibility, transforming the traditionally utilitarian bund strap into a sophisticated, seamlessly constructed piece of interlocked calfskin. Each strap, bearing both Universal Genève and HOSOÏ-PARIS signatures, is offered in a refined palette of brown or black for the white-gold models, and taupe or olive for the red-gold variants. Crafted in Paris, the very city where Nina Rindt first redefined her Compax, these straps elegantly complete the story of her enduring influence.
Further enhancing the exclusivity of the timepieces are the grand feu enamel dials. This demanding decorative technique, involving multiple firings at temperatures exceeding 800°C, results in a lustrous, enduring surface that resists fading. Available in opaque white or black, and translucent blue or brown, each dial is accentuated by a striking red chronograph seconds hand, a direct nod to Nina's personalized original watch.
At the heart of these chronographs beats the meticulously restored Universal Genève Caliber 281, a manual, column-wheel movement. This revival underscores the brand's historical technical prowess and signals a renewed commitment to in-house movement manufacturing. Gregory Bruttin, Managing Director, emphasized this dedication: "For us, the Tribute to Compax is a statement of where we’re going: refined luxury shaped with the same meticulous handwork that has always defined UG."
The resurrection of Universal Genève's in-house movement capability and its commitment to artisanal excellence through collaborations and traditional techniques positions the brand for a full market return by 2026, promising a future rooted in both innovation and deep respect for its illustrious past.
The reintroduction of "The Nina" Compax chronographs by Universal Genève transcends a mere product launch; it's a profound statement on the enduring power of design and personal style. It reminds us that objects, especially finely crafted ones, can become vessels of history and individuality. The collaboration with Nina Rindt herself, bringing her personal touch to a modern interpretation, highlights the timeless appeal of authentic narratives in luxury goods. Furthermore, the commitment to supporting the Geneva Watchmaking School through these sales beautifully intertwines commercial success with a dedication to nurturing future generations of artisans, ensuring that the intricate skills and profound artistry of watchmaking continue to thrive. This initiative serves as an inspiring example of how heritage brands can innovatively honor their past while actively investing in the future of their craft.