The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2026: A Jury's Perspective on the Finalists

This year, as a member of the jury for the esteemed Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), I've had the distinct privilege of delving into the selection of finalists for the 2026 edition. The awards ceremony, a highlight in the watchmaking calendar, is scheduled for November 7 in Geneva and promises to be a significant event. Notable changes have been introduced this year, including revised categories such as "Essential" and "Complication," alongside a strategic decision to host the ceremony in English, aiming to engage a wider international audience. While some prominent brands are conspicuously absent from the competition, the chosen finalists brilliantly showcase the industry's cutting-edge innovation and meticulous craftsmanship across a spectrum of categories, ranging from elegantly simple time-only models to complex mechanical masterpieces and exquisitely gem-encrusted designs. My responsibilities on the jury entail a thorough examination and robust debate, ensuring that every timepiece is judged impartially on its technical excellence and aesthetic appeal.

My journey on this year's GPHG jury, alongside a distinguished panel of journalists, collectors, and industry leaders, has been particularly insightful, especially with Wei Koh assuming the presidency. This platform offers a crucial opportunity to recognize the profound dedication and skill invested in each creation, often elevating emerging or overlooked talents whose work might otherwise remain in obscurity. The GPHG's commitment to inclusivity is evident, with ongoing efforts to refine categories and processes. From the initial nominations submitted by a vast Academy to the final selection of six watches per category, the system is designed to be comprehensive. Ultimately, the jury's collective expertise, combined with the broader Academy's ranked votes, will determine the winners, with all debates and deliberations conducted in strict confidence until the grand announcement.

The Refined Selection Process and Category Evolution

The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has undergone significant transformations, particularly with Wei Koh taking the helm of the jury. This year, the awards ceremony is transitioning to English, a strategic move to broaden its international appeal and reflect the global nature of contemporary watchmaking. Accompanying this linguistic shift are substantial revisions to the award categories, designed to foster greater inclusivity and precision in recognition. For instance, traditional gender-specific categories have been replaced with more neutral terms such as "Essential" and "Complication," aiming for a more equitable and modern approach to classification. Additionally, the "Iconic" prize now welcomes submissions from any brand, regardless of their participation status, and a revamped "Special Jury Prize" can honor individuals, institutions, or brands for their remarkable contributions to horological advancement or ethical practices. These adjustments underline a concerted effort to adapt the GPHG to the evolving landscape of the watch industry, promoting not only technical excellence but also broader engagement and recognition.

The meticulous process begins with over a thousand Academy members submitting nominations, followed by brands either entering themselves or opting out after a fee. From July to August, the Academy votes to narrow down contenders to six finalists in each of the 14 categories. As a juror, I'll join my colleagues in Geneva on November 1 to personally inspect, discuss, and vote on these timepieces. Critical voices argue that major brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe often abstain, which limits the competitive field. However, the involvement of brands like Blancpain and the renewed interest from others indicate a potential shift, encouraged by GPHG leadership who are actively working to make the awards more inclusive and globally resonant. The exhibition tour of winning watches, observed last year at Dubai Watch Week, truly showcases the public's appreciation for these horological marvels, highlighting the event's growing significance and outreach.

Spotlight on Key Categories: Innovation and Craftsmanship

Among the categories, "Time Only" presents an array of exquisite watches that, despite the implied simplicity of displaying only hours, minutes, and seconds, showcase remarkable design and mechanical innovation. Pieces like the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37 and the Naoya Hida Type8A are particularly noteworthy for their novel cases and movements, representing significant advancements within their respective brands. These finalists underscore that true innovation isn't solely found in complex functions but also in refining the fundamentals of watchmaking. While many exceptional timepieces didn't make the cut, such as the Audemars Piguet's Établisseurs Galets, the strong competition highlights the category's depth and the subjective nature of selection when a vast number of entries are considered. The debate over what constitutes 'novelty' versus 'interpretation' of existing designs remains central to discerning the year's standout creations.

The "Mechanical Exception" category stands out as one of the most hotly contested, featuring highly complex and innovative timepieces that defy conventional watchmaking. This year, two grand and petite sonneries from Blancpain and Chopard are among the favorites, though the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d'une Montre 3, with its entirely handmade construction and fusée-and-chain mechanism, is an equally compelling contender. Other remarkable entries include Konstantin Chaykin's ultra-thin mechanical watch and Christiaan van der Klaauw's Grand Planetarium, which uniquely displays the real-time orbits of all eight planets. This category’s broad definition — encompassing innovative displays, automata, striking functions, and special escapements — allows for a diverse showcase of horological ingenuity. The intense competition underscores the need for clear criteria, as some watches, like Cleuger's, were initially placed here before being re-categorized, indicating the fine line between complications and mechanical exceptions. The discussion within the jury will undoubtedly focus on the precise nature of each watch’s unique mechanism and its overall contribution to horological advancement.