Rediscovering a Lost Bvlgari Watch by Gerald Genta

My personal collection of timepieces has always expanded with careful consideration, a deliberate process refined by constant exposure to exquisite horology. My focus is consistently drawn to aesthetically unique, often elegant, and invariably intriguing pieces. At this stage, I seek out watches that offer an element of surprise, captivating even seasoned enthusiasts and prompting questions like, "What exactly is that remarkable piece?"

This particular ingot-style Bvlgari is a prime example of such a captivating discovery.

The initial encounter with this watch occurred during a late-night exploration of various auction platforms, where it was listed by a modest Italian auction house. There was no immediate intense desire, merely a spark of curiosity. The listing presented a single, remarkably clear photograph and a concise description outlining four key details: a 2000s origin, 18k gold construction, an Ebel manual-wind movement, and a case attributed to Gerald Genta.

I was familiar with the broad profile of dual-time versions of this style, but a time-only rendition was entirely new to me, instantly heightening my interest. Re-examining the description, the stated "2000s" era struck me as incorrect. While not a scholarly expert on vintage pieces, my extensive experience with auctions, dealers, and private viewings has honed my intuition, suggesting this watch was more likely a product of the late 1970s or early 1980s. Then, the mention of "Gerald Genta" caught my attention.

It's unfortunate that Genta's name is frequently used as a marketing gimmick today, diminishing its true significance. However, in this context, the attribution felt authentic. Although it clearly wasn't an integrated sports watch, my familiarity with Genta's work and his eventual association with Bvlgari made the claim credible. The watch's distinctiveness, the intriguing possibility of a genuine Genta design, and my personal admiration for its beauty were compelling enough for me to place a single, speculative bid. I either won it and was delighted, or I was outbid and moved on.

Weeks later, the watch arrived, exceeding all expectations. Its vertically brushed grey dial was striking, the case, though compact, exuded presence, and the "Gerald Genta signed case" turned out to be a hallmarked 'GG' buckle, verifying his involvement. Yet, several questions lingered: What was the extent of Genta's contribution to this watch? When was it truly manufactured? How rare was this time-only variant? These inquiries launched a meticulous investigation, gradually assembling a narrative far grander than I had initially envisioned.

My initial step was to contact Bvlgari. The watch arrived just before Geneva Watch Days, allowing me to present it to various vintage watch enthusiasts, collectors, dealers, and Fabrizio Buomamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari's Product Creation Executive Director. Everyone was captivated (or at least politely feigned interest) by this unusual timepiece. Stigliani clarified several crucial points: the watch indeed originated from the 1970s, not the 2000s. It housed an Ebel caliber, specifically an ETA 2512/Ebel 78x, and its brass dial was crafted by the renowned Stern Créations (formerly Stern Frères), celebrated for their impeccably finished dials throughout the 20th century.

Stigliani also mentioned having previously seen evidence of this time-only dial, but never before in a cased form. Still, the mystery of the Gerald Genta hallmark remained. The most logical next step was to contact the Genta family through the Gerald Genta Heritage Association. A swift email to Alexia Genta not only confirmed my suspicions but revealed a wealth of additional information.

After approximately two weeks, an email from Alexia arrived, containing an attached drawing that transformed everything. For those unfamiliar, this was the original hand-drawn and painted sketch by Gerald Genta, meticulously created at the very inception of this watch's design.

Alexia corroborated Stigliani's information, and crucially, the existence of this sketch definitively confirmed that Gerald Genta was directly commissioned by Gianni Bulgari for this watch. With the sketch in hand and the watch on my wrist, its dimensions became undeniably apparent: 35mm wide by 25mm tall, with a lug width of 22mm tapering to 16mm at the buckle. This, combined with the purposeful use of negative space on the dial, makes it wear less like a traditional watch and more like a sculptural cuff.

Following the verification of the watch's origins, I extended an invitation to Alexia for coffee in London, providing an opportunity for her to examine the watch firsthand and delve deeper into its history. She articulated her father's design philosophy, stating, "Dad consistently aimed for audacious and bold watches, yet they always retained an inherent elegance, a tactile quality, and were ultimately a joy to wear."

Prior to this encounter, I had a multitude of questions for Alexia regarding her father. Gerald Genta is widely recognized for his unparalleled influence on watch design, and she, along with her mother Evelyne Genta, were the closest to understanding the man behind the legendary name. Fortunately, she graciously allowed our conversation to expand beyond just the watch. Alexia elaborated that even in the 1970s, during the period her father likely designed this piece, he was incredibly busy. He was simultaneously developing his own brand while undertaking private-label commissions for esteemed companies such as Bvlgari, Fred, Graf, and Van Cleef. Remarkably, he executed all these designs, often from the comfort of their family home.

“I recall waking up for school to find Dad already dressed in an elegant suit and his Hermès tie, seated at his desk, immersed in watch design. That was his routine every morning. In the afternoons, he’d shift to painting. By the time I returned from school, he would typically have completed about four watch designs and two paintings.”

It became increasingly clear to me, as our conversation unfolded, that this small Bvlgari watch served as a fascinating conduit through which to explore the multifaceted realities of Genta's career and character, encompassing both his celebrated achievements and lesser-known aspects of his life.

Alexia further elaborated on her father's intrinsic creative process. “Whenever I inquired about the origin or inspiration behind his designs, he never offered a specific answer. He would simply say, ‘It came to me.’ That encapsulated his working method; it was entirely intuitive. Everything was already fully formed in his mind. When he designed a watch, he never produced multiple iterations. He would draw it once, complete it, and immediately move on to the next concept, which was invariably distinct.”

“He possessed a singular vision. He was an artist who never concerned himself with the creations of other brands, nor did he pay heed to fleeting trends or market demands. His focus was entirely detached from commercial considerations. This unique approach allowed him to maintain an unclouded vision and cultivate a style that was unequivocally his own.”

Since becoming a part of my collection, this Bvlgari has become an almost constant presence on my wrist, accompanying me on travels to Milan, Geneva, New York, and Dubai, with intermittent returns to London. In fact, on the rare occasions I opt for another timepiece, the inevitable question arises: “Where’s the Bvlgari?”

Since I shared some details about this watch on Instagram, a few instances of dual-time versions have been brought to my attention by fellow collectors, like the one from Bonhams. However, I have yet to encounter another time-only example. (On a side note, if you possess one, please feel free to send me a picture via Instagram at @timvaux.)

Perhaps the most insightful aspect of this timepiece is what it reveals about Bvlgari's present-day identity and the historical depth of its design language. A closer examination of its "12" and "6" numerals, along with the stick markers, reveals the same typography that characterizes the contemporary Octo, Roma, and Aluminium collections. Other watches from the 1970s also utilized this typography. It is particularly interesting to consider that an element of the Octo Finissimo's design, often lauded today for its boldness, forward-thinking nature, and challenging aesthetic, actually originated five decades earlier.

Today, Alexia and Evelyne manage the Gerald Genta Heritage Association, dedicated to showcasing their father's legacy while illuminating the person behind his iconic work.

“When we established the association in 2019, we realized that most people primarily recognized Dad for the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. We genuinely wanted them to understand the vast versatility of his work. He designed women's watches, sports watches, and dress watches of all forms, sizes, and materials. He was perpetually envisioning something audacious and unprecedented. Today, we observe watch brands re-launching his designs or discussing others, much like our conversation about this Bvlgari. I believe we wouldn’t have had this discussion a decade ago, and that, to me, is truly special.”

Alexia also contemplated common misunderstandings: “People often overlook that Dad started from very humble beginnings, with absolutely no formal training or understanding of the watch industry. We are now in a phase dedicated to helping people understand the man better. He was not commercially driven, nor was he a watchmaker. He faced a challenging start in life. Ultimately, he managed to preserve mechanical watchmaking during the quartz crisis through his designs. He was an artist; I find that profoundly beautiful. We strive to achieve this objective through collaborations with journalists and brands, and we have many exciting projects on the horizon.”

As our coffee meeting concluded, I inquired about the personal significance of undergoing this process and discussing her father's work. “It has been a profound journey to learn more about Dad’s creations. Our existing archives are far from complete, making this endeavor sometimes challenging. I would genuinely love to uncover the designs he created for Omega or Hamilton, but unfortunately, those records are not in our possession. Whenever someone approaches us, we collaboratively unearth information about the models he worked on; it is incredibly meaningful.”

This particular timepiece has taken me on an extraordinary journey recently. What began with a single bid at an auction evolved into uncovering the genuine history of a seemingly rare watch and forging a connection with the family of its legendary designer. As for the watch today? It remains a cherished part of my collection, frequently adorning my wrist and consistently sparking engaging conversations. I hope this experience serves as a testament that, even within our meticulously documented world of horology, there are still untold stories to discover, and in Genta’s case, to accurately reconstruct.